In the Kitchen

When you get this week’s box home, put the carrots, daikon, fennel, and parsley in plastic bags in your refrigerator. The spinach goes in, too. The peppers can go without if you put them in the crisper. Squash and tomatoes should sit out on your counter, and the onions want a dry, dark place, although they’ll be happy on your counter for a couple of weeks, too.

Somehow, for me, long, white Daikon Radish means fall. Maybe because Basho’s poem (quoted in this week’s essay) has always reached into my heart, or maybe because of the half in, half out of the ground way the root grows – like fall, one foot in each world; maybe because of the daikon pickles the son of Seattle’s Japanese consulate used to bring to our high school independent study in accounting. In any case, I love the crunch, the mild heat, and the surprisingly-bright feel in the mouth that daikon brings. Besides which, the daikon is the only vegetable I know of featured in a feature-length movie, appearing as a manifestation of a Shinto spirit of agriculture in Spirited Away (a scene which, in my mind, justifies the entire movie). We most often eat these sliced alongside of fall meals, and daikon make a nice foil for salty and rich foods.

Overnight Daikon Pickles

1 1/2 cups chopped daikon (1/2-inch pieces)
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Toss daikon with salt. Cover, and refrigerate until 1 to 2 tablespoons of water is released, about 30 minutes. Drain and rinse daikon, pat dry with a paper towel, and return to bowl. Stir in vinegar, black pepper, and sesame oil. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours.

I’m fussy about my winter squash. I think that most people who don’t like winter squash have simply never had a fully-ripe one. To pick a ripe winter squash, you need to know that, here in the north, we grow three species of squash. You can tell the species apart by looking at their peduncles (that’s the correct name for the “stem” that comes off the fruit).

• Cucurbita pepo, which includes jack-o-lantern pumpkins as well as acorn and delicate squashes, have stiff green peduncles. All squash have a “ground spot” where they rest on the ground. For this species of squash, look for that ground spot to have a golden orange hue, like the color of pumpkin pie filling when you stir in the spices – then you can’t go wrong.
• C. maxima, like buttercups, have a fleshy peduncle that is usually dry by the time they get to you. The peduncle should have a corky appearance rather than smooth.
• And C. moschata, which is pretty much only the beige butternuts, have a five-sided peduncles that flairs at the base. Look for a color that Martha Stewart might feature in her fall collection; anything pale or washed out simply isn’t ready.

All winter squash should be stored in a dry, cool place with good air circulation. When I lived in an apartment in Madison, I stored a winter’s worth on my living room bookshelves, tucked on top of the trade paperbacks; food for the body, and food for the mind. This week’s Honeyboat squash is a new farm favorite, coming out of the same breeding stock as Delicata and Sugarloaf.

Squash Rings

2 Honeyboat, Sugarloaf, or Delicata squash
oil

Slice off the ends of two Sugarloaf or Delicata squash, scoop out the seeds, and cut into rings about 1/3-inch thick (the skins are edible on these varieties). Heat 1-1/2 tablespoons of oil in a wide skillet, add the squash, and fry over medium heat until richly colored on the bottom, about 6 minutes. Turn and cook on the second side until tender. Remove to a serving plate.

Flat-leaved Italian Parsley has been a mainstay of European cooking for two thousand years – in ancient Rome, it was synonymous with celery, and used as a vegetable. A little parsley lightens up almost any dish, and is almost guaranteed to turn you into a good cook! The squash rings above go fantastically with this Gremolata, as does chicken and beef.

Gremolata

garlic
parsley
lemon juice
salt

Chop together 1 plump clove of garlic with 1/4 cup parsley, then add a little lemon juice or salt to taste.

Crisp, sweet-scented Fennel has its culinary and horticultural roots firmly planted in Italy, where it is also known as finocchio. With a licorice-scent, the bulb and foliage can be used raw or cooked, as an appetizer or even as desert, slivers served raw with pears, oranges, or apples.

Fennel with Butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 medium fennel bulb, quartered
2 tablespoons butter
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano—Reggiano cheese

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add fennel pieces and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes, then drain. Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add fennel, season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and cook turning fennel occasionally, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the Parmigiano—Reggiano cheese. Serve hot or cold.

In the summer, we live on fresh salsa prepared without any cooking, but come fall this salsa really hits the spot.

An Autumnal Salsa

½ cup red onion, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
8 oz can chopped tomatoes (fire-roasted, if you’ve got it)
1/2 Jalapeno pepper, or more to taste
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1 Tbsp lime juice

Heat olive oil in a heavy skillet. Add onions and sauté until just translucent. Add tomatoes and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated, and tomatoes are soft. Add 1/4 cup water if necessary to soften the tomatoes. Add jalapeno pepper and simmer for five more minutes. Transfer to serving bowl, correct seasoning, add cilantro and lime juice, and serve.