Celeriac, the large, knobbly root in this week’s box, is the same species as celery, but bred for the swollen root rather than the fleshy stems. A more primitive version of the species, celeriac has contributed almost all of the modern pest resistance to celery varieties. It has the same flavor compounds, but they come through more strongly; the flesh is soggy-firm, and works best in cooked dishes. We love it in soups and mashed with potatoes.
Celeriac Puree
4 medium potatoes
1 large celeriac
1 tablespoon garlic, crushed
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup cream
salt, white pepper
Peel potatoes and celeriac. Chop into 2 inch cube and place in a pot with water to barely cover. Add the garlic and bay leaf. Cook, covered, over medium heat for about 20 minutes, until vegetables are very tender. Drain the vegetables, remove bay leaf, and puree them with a food processor. Stir in the butter, and the cream. Season with pepper.
The Purple or Orange Cauliflower is really just a lot of fun. The color means it has more nutrients, and the plant doesn’t need to be tied up to stay white; better for you, easier for us. The flavor seems to be a little nuttier than straight cauliflower, and the color actually sticks around if you don’t overcook it. We especially like it steamed until just fork tender.
Cauliflower with Olives, Capers, and Roasted Pine Nuts
1 small head of cauliflower
15 kalamata olives, pitted
1-2 tablespoons capers
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons pine nuts
Salt
Lemon juice
Olive oil
Break the cauliflower head into smaller parts and steam them until ‘al dente.’ Toast the pine nuts in a pan until golden Mix together remaining ingredients and toss with the cooked cauliflower and pine nuts. Adjust seasoning and serve.
Roasted Winter Vegetables
We eat the following roasted root vegetable recipe at least once a week during the winter, changing the ingredients to suit what we have clean, or, as the season progresses, what we have left. The recipe works well whether you use a wide variety of vegetables or just a few.
4 lbs assorted root vegetables: turnips, celeriac, carrots, beets; winter squash, whole shallots, and onion wedges work well, too.
3 tablespoons olive oil
a smattering of fresh or dried herbs (such as rosemary or thyme)
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Scrub vegetables and cut off roots and tops. Cut into 2 inch pieces and toss with olive oil; by cutting denser, slower cooking vegetables into smaller pieces, everything comes out evenly cooked. Spread on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes or until fork tender. Toss with vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Broccoli takes on a sweeter flavor with cool weather, but it really doesn’t thrive on the sort of cold weather that hit us three weeks ago. Even though the heads were just starting on this crop at the first of October, the stems were damaged quite severely. Our samplings seem to indicate that the eating quality is still great, while the keeping quality isn’t. Use this broccoli within a few days for the most satisfaction.
Carrots—you know what to do!
Cabbage has a reputation as coarse and common food, but it can have a refined flavor when treated well. Like its cousins broccoli and cauliflower, that really means not overcooking. Braising Red Cabbage is a nice treatment, and a little bit of vinegar will set the color to a bright red.
Squash Rings
2 sugarloaf or delicata squash
oil
Slice off the ends of two Sugarloaf or Delicata squash, scoop out the seeds, and cut into rings about 1/3-inch thick (the skins are edible on these varieties). Heat 1-1/2 tablespoons of oil in a wide skillet, add the squash, and fry over medium heat until richly colored on the bottom, about 6 minutes. Turn and cook on the second side until tender. Remove to a serving plate.
We’ve read that the sign of a good cook is fresh Italian Parsley in the refrigerator, so even if you don’t think of yourself as a good cook, you’ve officially made it to those ranks now. Live large! The gremolata recipe below makes a great pairing with squash rings, beef, or lamb.
Gremolata
garlic
parsley
lemon juice
salt
Chop together 1 plump clove of garlic with 1/4 cup parsley, then add a little lemon juice or salt to taste.
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