Thursday, November 02, 2006

In the Farm Kitchen 3 November 2006

Small and ugly on the outside, Gold Beets have a sweet, slightly less-earthy flavor than their red sisters. The color is fantastic, and they don't bleed staining red juice all over the place. We especially like them just baked. Simply rub trimmed (not peeled) beets with olive or vegetable oil and place them in a casserole dish with 1/2 inch of water. Cover and bake in a 400 degree oven for about an hour. The beets are ready when they can easily be penetrated with a paring knife. Cool slightly and slip the peel off. We slip the peel off under running water; it saves on burning the fingers. Eat and enjoy.

Brussels Sprouts often garner looks of disdain, with memories of childhood dinners ruined by the funny little cabbages. But wait! Brussels sprouts harvested after a hard frost are an entirely different vegetable than the specimens from the coast of California. Try them! To prepare for cooking, pare off the tough bottom part of the sprout stem. Steaming works well, and is more forgiving than boiling, but don’t overcook them! Sprouts are best when tender but not mushy. Our favorite, albeit unconventional, preparation follows.


Roasted Brussels Sprouts

1 lb Brussels sprouts

3 Tbsp olive oil

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp black pepper

Preheat the oven 400 degrees. Mix Brussels sprouts with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast on a baking sheet for about 40 minutes, shaking occasionally, until crisp on the outside but still tender inside. Sprinkle with even more salt, and serve.


Romanesco broccoli —sort of like a chartreuse, conical cauliflower—always elicits lots of interest when people see it for the first time. We love the nutty flavor and smooth texture of it lightly cooked. The season for this gourmet treat is pretty short in the Upper Midwest, and we've gotten kind of stuck on the following preparation, which we use for almost all of the romanesco we harvest for ourselves.


Romanesco with Dried Tomatoes and Kalamata Olives

1-1/2 lbs Romanesco Broccoli

1 large clove garlic, chopped

1/4 dried tomatoes, rehydrated and chopped

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 tsp capers

10 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped

1 tsp lemon juice

2 pinches cayenne pepper

1 Tbsp red wine vinegar

Break florets off of the romanesco head, and boil until al dente (about 3 minutes) - do not overcook! Drain. Heat olive oil and simmer garlic in oil until it just turns golden. Set aside. In a fresh bowl, combine the remaining ingredients. Add garlic, mix well, and toss in the romanesco. Salt and pepper to taste, and serve warm.


We took a four week break from Carrots to let them size up out in the field, and it seems to have paid off! Everybody on the farm has been gobbling these orange beauties almost constantly since we picked them late last week.

We think of Carola Potatoes as farmer-friendly Yukon Golds, since they aren't as susceptible to the same various physiological disorders but has a flavor and texture that is just as good or better

We harvest Rosemary from our greenhouse all winter. If the stems are soft, you can chop them right along with the leaves; if they are woody, strip the leaves before using.

Round, off-white, and kind of ugly, Celeriac is exactly the same species as celery, and actually a more ancient form. Selected for its swollen root instead of its fleshy stems, it has all of the same flavor compounds as celery, with an additional earthy note. We use it most often in soups and roasted vegetables, or mashed with potatoes, as follows:


Celeriac and Potato Puree

2 lbs potatoes, cubed

1lb Celeriac, peeled, and cubed

1 teaspoon rosemary, minced

4 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup cream or milk

1/4 cup chicken stock

salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375. Boil potatoes and celeriac together in a large pot, until they are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and put on baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes (this dries the potatoes and celeriac out). Melt the butter and add the rosemary to it. After the potatoes and celeriac are baked mash them with the butter (or pass through a potato ricer). Add the stock and cream, stir, season with salt and pepper.


On our farm, harvest of the long, white daikon radish signifies the change from early fall to late fall. Widely grown and universally eaten in Japan, daikon radish is known for being a digestive stimulant. We like it sliced and served raw alongside almost any meal; it makes an especially good foil for salty meats.

Easy-to-peel Rocambole Garlic is a staple for warding off the first colds of winter!

This week's Winter Greens Mix is a simple mix of endive, escarole, and lettuce. It will hold up quite nicely to a sturdy dressing, such as ranch, blue cheese, or the following. Avocados are actually in season right now, and it is well worth making the most of them!


Avocado Goddess Dressing

1 ripe avocado, seeded

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tsp coarse salt

2 tsp lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

pepper

dash of cayenne

Scoop the avocado out and mash with a fork. Add other ingredients and continue to macerate until you have a salad dressing consistency.


With a slightly sweet flavor and fine texture, Shallots make a great addition to salad dressings, or other minimally-cooked uses; they are also great where you want to add some extra-special onion flavor.

Among our favorite winter squash, Heart of Gold Squash lends itself very well to baking as you would an acorn squash.

With bright pink skin, Scarlet Turnips have a sweeter, less earthy flavor than a regular turnip. Great in soups, stews, and roasted vegetables, we also enjoy scarlet turnips served raw. Ours got a little bit big this year, but don't be afraid: the flavor is still quite nice.

With a green shoulders, white bottoms, and a little bit of pink blush at the tail, Beauty Heart Radishes may not look like much. But when you cut them open, you will discover a fantastic, sweet pink flesh. We eat these sliced and served. They do have a touch of spice, but most of that is in the peel, so you can leave that or take it off, as you like.

Farm Log 3 November 2006

Weather: In the past two weeks, I think we've seen it all! Rain gave way to a long, dry stretch that has let us almost finish our fall field work of spreading compost and rock mineral fertilizers and seeding down cover crops. Severe cold turned to severe warm turned to severely cold and windy. We are hoping for two more weeks of mild weather to finish up our outdoor work.

Activities on the Farm: Since the last CSA box, we harvested almost everything in that list above! It's been a lot of picking, and picking, and picking...

Comings and Goings: Chris traveled last Tuesday to Minneapolis to give the keynote address at the Wedge Food Co-op's annual meeting.

Infrastructure Progress: The house seems to be progressing quickly. The roof is shingled and today the crew began installing windows. Meanwhile, the garage we ar living in is holding the heat pretty well.

The Third Winter Box may include parsnips, butternut squash, carrots, kale, broccoli, and more...

New Packing House

Last week finally saw the demise of the last remnants of our old packing shed as a bulldozer pushed the concrete slab up the draw that runs through the middle of our farm. We will not miss it. I recently stumbled upon pictures taken the week after Thanksgiving last year. Snow piled up against the clear plastic walls of the small greenhouse that we had built while we washed roots in our stocking hats and long johns. We had unstacked fifty pound crates of carrots in our small walk-in cooler from over six feet high, while another pallet of roots had been unloaded with the tractor from the refrigerated semi-trailer we had rented for $800 a month; I was pulling this with a pallet jack through the door from an uncovered slab, slipping on the ice and snow as I tried to gain some leverage. The pictures didn't show the background noise of the refrigeration unit running on the trailer, or the diesel fuel it used for power.

The cold weather this fall has really made us appreciate the new packing house, where the cooler door opens straight into the packing area, rather than requiring a trip outside. It seemed like such a small thing when we built the old packing shed, but we learned otherwise over the years of scraping the cooler door over packed snow, and slipping on the ice hauling crates of carrots. And last year, when it came time to return the semi trailer and we were working to consolidate our roots into the cooler, the weather was so cold that we froze a bunch of roots in the short time they were out. Oh, what joyous things to look forward to not experience.

We divided the cooler into two sections, so we have a “wet” side and a “dry” side to work with. This means that instead of keeping the onions in the greenhouse, where temperatures can vary widely over the course of a day, we now have storage for onions, garlic, and shallots. As a result, we have enough shallots now to see us through until spring; we'll probably have enough to distribute to the CSA when we start the spring shares in April. We also get to spread out our cash flow through the winter by metering out twenty or thirty pounds a week of these specialty crops.

So far this fall, we have loaded into our cooler: 5,000 pounds of carrots, 5,000 pounds of beets, 1300 pounds of turnips, 800 pounds of celeriac, 900 pounds of turnips, 800 pounds of rutabagas, 400 pounds of daikon, and 2,000 pounds of potatoes. In the past, we would have harvested these items into crates of about 50 pounds each, loaded them in the harvest van (a Ford Econoline) to move to the cooler, unloaded the van by hand, and stacked the crates into the cooler. This year, almost all of these items were harvested into 20-bushel wooden bins (4 feet long, 3.5 feet wide, and 3 feet high, holding a thousand pounds of roots) and moved to the packing shed with the forks on the tractor. Once in the packing shed, a pallet jack lets us wheel them right into the cooler. If we have two of the same thing, we stack the bins before putting them in the cooler. That's 2,000 pounds of roots just rolling across the floor. Wheels just make things so incredibly easy!

When we are ready to wash the roots, we wheel the bins out of the cooler and move roots into crates. This sounds arduous, but compared to all of the lifting we did before, it's really pretty easy. A large operation might have a bin dumper, but we rarely wash a thousand pounds of a kind of root at a time, so loading into crates works better for us. We stack the crates on a pallet again so that if necessary, we can move them around or put back into the cooler if we decide to take lunch or wash them the next day.

Once we've pulled off all of the roots we need and put all of the bins away again, we fire up the barrel washer, an 8-foot long tube made of wooden slats with water nozzles inside. The roots go in one end, tumble around in the water spray for a while, and scrub themselves clean. At the other end we “polish” them up with a pressure washer and box them up for CSA, farmers market, or delivery to stores. We stack the boxes and crates of clean roots on pallets which, again, we just roll into the cooler. This way, we can wash about five hundred pounds an hour.

As you can imagine, we generate a lot of mud in this process. Our soils are not the traditional sandy soils for growing root crops, so plenty of soil sticks to the roots. In the old packing shed, some of this drained away, but most of it just stuck to the floor; when the yahoos we hired to pour the slab did the job, they didn't put an adequate slope to the floor. Water sort of drained away, but mud mostly just puddled the floor. The new packing shed features a nicely-sloped floor and a large trench and silt trap (basically, a trench with a pipe at the top of it), covered with a grate, to catch the mud before the water travels away to a grassy water way on the farm. At the end of a washing session, a simple hose-down removes any lingering dirt.

When it's time to load the truck, we organize the food onto pallets, and roll them onto the loading dock and into the truck. No lifting!

Sustainable agriculture has a lot of components, but the most important is the farmers. Market farming will never be a job that does not place stress on the body, but after seven years both of us could feel the strain. And, frankly, I can think of lots of ways to spend my time better that schlepping crates of vegetables around unnecessarily. Of course, we have had to balance out our needs and our expenses, and in the early years it was entirely appropriate to take the inexpensive, hard way out. But now we've taken a huge step towards giving our farm the ability to last for years in the future.